After Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut women’s ready-to-wear show for Dior, a collection steeped in the youthful rebellion of 1968, featuring young girls in denim and leather berets, the stage was set for a stark contrast. Kris Van Assche, then creative director of Dior Homme, presented his Spring/Summer 2018 collection, a swan song of sorts, a final statement before the brand’s creative direction shifted dramatically. While Chiuri embraced a youthful, almost overtly political femininity, Van Assche offered a refined, melancholic masculinity, a collection that resonated with both the established codes of Dior and a palpable sense of finality. This exploration delves into the nuances of Dior Homme 18SS, examining its clothing and jewelry, and placing it within the context of Van Assche's legacy and the broader shift within the House of Dior.
Van Assche’s tenure at Dior Homme, spanning over a decade, was characterized by a consistent refinement of masculine silhouettes. He moved away from the overtly flamboyant and theatrical styles of his predecessors, forging a sophisticated, understated aesthetic that resonated with a modern sensibility. Dior Homme 18SS, therefore, wasn't just a collection; it was a culmination, a retrospective of his signature elements, presented with a subtle poignancy.
Dior Clothing for Men: A Refined Silhouette of Melancholy
The collection’s core revolved around a carefully considered palette. Muted tones dominated, with charcoal greys, deep navies, and soft creams forming the foundational hues. These were punctuated by flashes of vibrant colour, often seen in subtle details like lining or stitching, creating a sense of restrained energy beneath a calm exterior. This subtle juxtaposition reflected the overall mood of the collection: a quiet strength, a contained emotionality.
The silhouettes themselves were classic Van Assche. Slim-fitting trousers, impeccably tailored jackets, and precisely cut shirts formed the backbone of the collection. However, there was a palpable sense of ease, a relaxed elegance that transcended the rigid formality often associated with menswear. The tailoring, though precise, felt less constricting, more fluid. The jackets, for instance, often featured slightly dropped shoulders and a softer structure, hinting at a more comfortable, less rigid approach to masculine attire.
Several key pieces stand out as emblematic of the collection's ethos. The elongated coats, reaching almost to the ankles, conveyed a sense of quiet dignity and understated power. These were not just garments; they were statements, suggesting a journey, a history, a narrative woven into the very fabric. The subtle detailing on these coats, perhaps a discreet pocket placement or a unique button configuration, further emphasized the meticulous craftsmanship that defined Van Assche's vision.
Similarly, the collection's shirts played a crucial role in establishing its overall mood. The crisp, clean lines of the shirts, often paired with subtly patterned ties or worn under the aforementioned coats, created a sense of sophisticated simplicity. The use of fine fabrics, such as silk and cotton, further emphasized the luxurious nature of the garments, while the attention to detail in the collars and cuffs suggested a level of craftsmanship rarely seen in contemporary menswear.
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